The art of weaving played a pivotal role in determining the texture and resilience of the fabric. Artisans meticulously selected threads and patterns to achieve both strength and visual appeal.
"Zhuanghua (妆花)" stands out as one of the most intricate weaving techniques within Nanjing Yunjin. Mamian Qun adorned with imitation Zhuanghua patterns boast elaborate designs and a diverse array of colors.
Another notable technique is "hijin" (woven gold), wherein patterns are intricately woven using threads of gold. Unlike imitation Zhuanghua, the patterns of imitation woven gold tend to be more monochromatic. Gold threads come in various types, including Bian Jin (扁金, flat gold), Yuan Jin (圆金, round gold), and Bao Jin (包金, wrapped gold).
Bian Jin, the most prevalent type, creates numerous reflective surfaces due to its flat shape, imparting a radiant appearance to the pattern. However, flat gold threads are susceptible to flipping, which is considered a normal occurrence rather than a flaw. Round gold, on the other hand, is less prone to flipping and exhibits a higher level of glossiness, revealing a subtle sandy texture. Wrapped gold offers superior color retention and glossiness.
It's important to note the use of the term "imitation" for both Zhuanghua and Zhijin. This designation acknowledges that reproducing makeup flowers and woven gold, as cherished traditional handicrafts in ancient China, poses challenges for machines to replicate intricate details on a large scale within a short timeframe. Consequently, most commercially available Mamian Qun imitate these crafts through skilled craftsmanship rather than exact replication.
Sources: https://www.newhanfu.com/53928.html
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